Why would a sailor take a diesel marine engine course?
My husband booked us on a Diesel marine engine course after we decided to trade our 6 bedroom house for a floating 56′ home. Upon hearing news of the course I thought, isn’t it more important to learn how to sail better, but then I remembered surviving engine failure and thought it was prudent. (See my article Experiencing engine failure and living to tell the tale)
Eventually I became quite excited about the course. Not only was I interested in knowing how to properly service an engine, but I also wanted the ability to keep an eye on any contractors working on our engine.
I hate feeling like I’m being ripped off.
Below I’ve listed my top 10 interesting tid-bits that I learned during the course, but let me give you a wee bit more background. Previous to our course, my knowledge about diesel marine engines was limited to checking the water level, using the oil dip stick, ensuring the belt was secure and that’s about it. I had absolutely no idea how engines really worked.
During our 4-day course, there were 10 of us that completely dismantled a huge Rolls Royce Diesel engine. I personally took off the exhaust manifold, starter engine, injectors, alternator and water tank (how cool do I now think I am?) It was so interesting to see all the parts coming off. During the 4 days our teacher took us through all the systems.
We followed the paths that the coolant, oil, fuel and exhaust took.
In between playing with the engine we learned about the various parts and how they worked. Crankshaft, flywheel, camshaft, pistons, cylinders, injectors, pumps, turbo chargers, exhaust and on and on. It was so helpful to actually take a camshaft out, touch it and then look at how it worked! I felt as if I was learning by playing and sometimes that’s the best way! It also helped that our teacher, Paul Bennett, was excellent. There’s nothing this guy doesn’t know.
Throughout the week I kept notes – listed below are the my top 10 interesting tid-bits that I learned over and above the ‘basic’ engine concepts. How many of them did you know about?
But before we get to my top 10 marine engine course tid-bits…
…have you looked at my guide titled, Checklists for Sailors – Passage Planning, Sailboat Maintenance, Cleaning, Medical and more . This guide is a boaters must-have checklist reference guide. When you’re first starting out you don’t know what you don’t know! These checklists are really good for knowing what to check on a marine engine and when you should be checking it.
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Top 10 interesting tid-bits about a diesel marine engine
- Fuel quality varies greatly. You can get good clean fuel or you can get very dirty and potentially engine damaging fuel. Before fuelling up, you can visit the fuel pontoon, request a sample and check it for the presence of water, dirt and fuel bugs – yes there are bugs that live and grow in fuel and you do NOT want them in your engine! The bugs can get in there, multiply and if left alone will eventually turn into a pile of black sludge that needs to be emptied with a shovel! By simply being proactive and putting a capful of Biocide in your tank while fueling up you can ensure that any bugs are killed.
- The primary and secondary fuel filter often look exactly the same – only the part number is different. One filter removes larger particles and the other removes smaller particles. It’s very important to put the right filter in the right place when changing them! (The old, less knowledgable me would think they were the same and just pop one into each filter not paying any attention)
- Continuous exhaust smoke indicates one of three issues depending on the color. White smoke is water in the combustion process. Black is too much fuel combusting and blue is oil in the combustion chamber. All three are a problem and need to be solved! 4.Water cooler units need to be taken out, remove o-rings on either end and soaked in acid overnight. After soaking use a pipe cleaner or riffle brush to clean out all of the tubes. Contractors say that they clean the cooler but they often leave it in the engine and just jam the debris inside the unit. It’s a real laborious job, but needs to be done correctly at least once a year. Put new o-rings and lots of lube on when putting the cooler back in.
- Engine belts. Always change in pairs (if they come in pairs) – never change just one of them. A quick trick for slipping belts, if you’re in a bind, is to spray some hairspray on them; this will cause them to stick.
- The exhaust creates a concoction of chemicals and one of them is Sulphuric Acid. Oil is high in ph and that helps to counter balance the effects of acid. Over time, however the Ph effect of the oil is reduced and that is why we need to change the oil. After a certain amount of time the oil can’t cancel out the acid. Always change it when recommended!
- Oil quality does not vary. Oil is oil whether it’s branded a name brand or not. You pay more for big name brands and the oil is no different than the one without branding. You just need to make sure to match the SAE or API number that your engine requires. Tip: Add the API number to the cap that holds the oil so you never go wrong.
- Alway smell your oil when checking the dips stick. If you smell fuel there’s a serious problem that needs to be sorted before starting it! To test, put a splodge of oil on a coffee filter, if it stays a splodge, then no fuel is present. If however, a halo effect appears that indicates the presence of fuel. There’s fuel leaking into the engine and that needs to be sorted.
- Copper washers. New and old, need to be heated until they’re red hot and then dropped into a cup of water. When they’re ready to use they look pink. Using them without doing this may cause a poor seal.
- Check your seacocks. The most important thing you can do on a boat is check the seacocks every weak – open and close them. Use a silicon based grease on them and always carry spare handles as they can easily break off. I know this has nothing to do with engines but it’s one of those things we boaters know about but fail to do. Our boat has 35 seacocks so I’m not looking forward to that job 🙁
- Cool down. After a long trip using the engine, it’s important to let the engine cool down. If you’re in port, the engine is ticking over in neutral and there’s too much exhaust coming out (and suffocating the crew), just increase the rev’s a bit. This will reduce the exhaust smoke coming out.
I SERIOUSLY am interested in any tid-bits you have to offer too! Please leave a comment so we can all benefit. Also, you might be interested in a very handy Diesel Marine Engine Pre Start Checks Checklist. You can print it off, laminate it and store it in your navigation table. Every time you or someone does the engine checks you can use a wipe-erase marker to tick the tasks as you do them.
Here are some more things, I can think of quickly…..
Change the impellers annually, especially if the motor is not run for some time.
Bad fuel, polish it. http://www.dieselfueldoctor.com/blog/?p=87
Use a Fuel/Water/Air separator
Hi, great article.
Could be improved by changing “starter engine” for “starter motor”.
Wow, how on earth do you get 35 seacocks.
I was exaggerating. I think it’s more like 23… It’s still a lot! Thanks for your feedback Andrew.
Kim,
Can you recommend a diesel course ?
Charles, we took a course from Paul Bennett in Southampton, UK. I’m not sure if they still offer the course or not – perhaps Google Diesel Marine Engine Course for beginners (or something like that). I don’t know where you live so it’s probably best to so search in your area… Smiles, Kim
Andrew,It is right…It’s an Engine weather gas or diesel.A motor is electric or hydraulic ?
An engine produces power/energy to do work , as in a steam engine on an old farm tractor, train or boat. Your car engine produces kinetic energy by a chemical reaction. A motor uses power/energy that has already been produced and converts this into work , like an electric or hydraulic motor that have the energy supplied through cables or hoses from a electrical generation plant or a hydraulic pump. Keep in mind that the hydraulic pump will only produce flow/pressure and will need something to drive it , like an engine or electric motor and this electric motor needs to have its power supplied from some form of power generating plant.
Bio treating diesel is a must. You have to do it regularly even if you have not topped it up with fresh fuel. I work offshore in a harsh environment and we dose our fuel tanks regularly.
Water in fuel is always a problem. Some unscrupulous fuel seller will add water to his big diesel storage tanks to get more fuel for nothing. (I know this because I have centrifuged many a boats fuel to get rid of it) Fuel Filters should be changed regularly, Oil also. If at all possible change out engine oil when it is hot. Spare belts should be kept out of the light and stored flat. Diesel and fuel leaks should not be tolerated ever. Check your fuel return lines are in good condition and nothing is damaging them, Carry spare gaskets. Also a sheet of gasket material that you can cut to fit anything is always handy. Electrics kept tied up and out of the way, higher rather than lower is a good thing, When selecting wire connectors get proper professional ones ……………. cheap is flimsy and will let you down.
Regular maintenance is a must. Have a routine on a spread sheet covering maintenance routines ……….. if you have an engine and the oil has not been changed for 12 months ……. even if you have not used it ……. consider changing it. Fuel filters are the same. Con’t forget about glow plugs ………. they influence so much in an engine, starting,fuel economy, keep the engine running.
Cooling: Spares are a must ………….. for every part of it, that includes the thermostat housing which is often made of sacrificial zinc. Use inhibits in the water. Plenty of hose clamps. Another handy thing is a foot or so of copper pipe the same diameter of your coolant hoses. If you spring a leak and you don’t have a spare hose,cut it in two at the leak, split, hole, cut a bit of copper long enough so that it you can join it , clamp it refill with coolant and get on with your journey. Don’t forget to buy two replacements (That shouldn’t have happened?) and change it out as soon as possible.
I can rant more but I think your ears need a rest. Medical stuff……….. A ship captains medical course covers most. Then a short lecture on medical treatments and antibiotic usage should make things safer
health wise.
Really,Condensation is usually the major problem in Canada ,Hot cold temp,inside tank?
Good thoughts Kim and THANK YOU for sharing. BTW…I’m not convinced all oils are the same. I used to be a rep for Amsoil and have read the science behind these types of oils. But, if someone doesn’t want to do extensive research, just stay with name brand oil that you are familiar with. Ü
Thanks Kim, ( et al ) – a useful article indeed. As a weekend sailor our yachts always had one major pre-season overhaul so I didn’t think too much about ongoing maintenance – but for a longterm cruise I guess it needs continuous monitoring.
A similar article on electrical R&M & troubleshooting could be good?
Thanks Kim,,
Coincidental to your email I signed up for a Diesel engine course that begins tomorrow evening 😄.
We did a six week trip through the Great Lakes this summer with 130 hours of engine time (sailboat). Pre Checks conducted each morning before departure with up to 12 hrs running time due to no wind or on the nose and an ear to the engine note all day kept me in tune with our engine. Decided it was a good idea to become better acquainted with the engine thus the course.
I am confident with oil changes, impeller changes and switching out the entire water pump as well as belt adjustment but want to be more confident with whatever else may come along that could be within my ability to fix/repair/ Macguyver if need be while away from shore.
Thanks again for your writings and videos, you guys a Rock!!
can anyone please provide the coordinates of the course providers in the US , UK and elsewhere in Europe. it is so hard to find a decent course on marine engine repairs!! thanks in advance.
Good stuff. Thanks. Even 23 holes in your boat 🙂 WOW. You’re right about checking them though. I think 90 percent of the deaths I hear about come from a failure of one of the seacocks… maybe. a lot anyway. Of all the things on the boat the engine is my weakest point. I really appreciate this. Plus the fella who mentioned the impeller. Forgot about that, thanks
Excellent article – Thanks Kim
Thank you Matthew 🙂
Hi Kim,
And don’t forget to carry spare engine coolant and distilled water for your batteries
Totally agree!
Thanks so much Kim on your Emails on things about sailboats. But I looking to see if sailing is what I want to so I’m looking into doing so sailing classes before buying my first Sailboat. My game plan is too sail the Great Lakes to get knowledge of sailing and see how I do also try to find other people that like sailing. I am going to read a lot on sailing then move on each week of learning. Any good books you can think of for me to read? Maybe like Sailing for Dummies to read or what to you think? Do you charge for shipping on your Shirts and what the price? thanks Greg
He Greg! I learned to sail on Lake Ontario and the St Lawrence River. The great lakes are similar to oceans so it’s a great place to learn. There’s certainly enough room. ‘Sailing For Dummies’ is a good book – I have it 😉 It’s for small boats but helps people to get the basics. Sailing isn’t too difficult. The real learning, however, is to get out there and just do it. Taking some classes is your best bet. You can find all our t-shirts on the following link. I think there’s a small shipping fee: https://www.etsy.com/shop/SailingBritican?ref=seller-platform-mcnav§ion_id=17145301 Thank you for commenting Greg and best wishes with your sailing plans. Kim