If you’ve never worked on engines before it’s quite a steep learning curve when it comes to troubleshooting. For over two years, and after a major refit, our trusted Westerbeke Generator has never failed us. That is, until recently! Unfortunately, we experienced a marine diesel engine starting problem.
After pre-heating the starter and then turning the engine on, all we could hear was tick-tick-tick-tick-tick (check out the video below to hear the sound – it’s below the following picture). It sounded as if the starter motor was trying to start the engine, but it just wouldn’t kick over.
Here’s our old and new starter motor. Little did we know that our old starter wasn’t the problem!
In hindsight, and knowing what we didn’t know before the issue, we could have saved ourselves loads of time and hundreds of dollars.
My hope is that you’re able to learn from our mistakes.
Whether you’re experiencing a starting problem now or you’re preparing yourself for life on a boat, this video will help you to potentially save yourself from a misdiagnosis. The video will demonstrate the issue we had in addition to using two potential solutions. One potential problem is the battery. The second is the diesel engine starter motor. The video covers a solution to both problems.
Marine Diesel Engine Starting Problem Video
Marine Diesel Engine Starting Problem Troubleshooting Checklist
- Check the battery terminals – are they loose or dirty? If yes, tight and/or clean them.
- Check the status of the battery. If it’s not charged and can be charged, charge it. Otherwise, check to see if it needs to be replaced. Do not rely on a green indicator as we did. If there’s another battery you can use, move the terminals and see if that works.
- Check the ground connections. Check the starter circuit, particularly the starter ground.
- Finally, check the actual starter motor for stuck or worn brushes. Also check the solenoid.
In the video you’ll notice that we started with the starter motor and worked backwards! Well, that’s not true. We did check the battery that powers the generator and the indicator had a green light. We assumed that if the indicator was green it meant that the batter was NOT dead.
Either the green indicator is faulty or the indicator stays green until the battery is completely dead. Our battery still had a charge in it however the charge was not sufficient enough to start the starter motor.
If we had known that our battery was the issue we would have saved time, money and effort.
Instead, we removed the starter motor, researched the Internet to find a replacement and then waited a few days for the replacement. Once we had the new starter motor we had to research how to swap the old for the new. We (or I should say Simon) then had to swap out the starter and all for a disappointing result.
To keep my PMA (Positive Mental Attitude) alive, I’m telling myself that at least we now know how to replace a starter motor. Not all has been lost – we have gained wisdom and experience 🙂
Back to the issue at hand…
While feeling dejected that our generator did not start with the new starter motor, and by odd coincidence, a friend paid us a visit. Our friend, having a background in the marine industry, questioned, ‘have you checked your battery?’
One thing led to another and our friend left us and returned with a proper battery checker. As shown during the video, you’ll notice that the charge in our generator battery was 63 cold cranking amps out of 1000. Although our battery light showed a green light it was close to dead.
We used one of our engine batteries to try and start the generator and it started right up!
The Marine Diesel Engine Starting Problem was our battery.
We got there in the end – eh?!
Let me leave you with a very helpful resource that we keep on board. The book below, titled Marina Diesel Engines – Maintenance and Repair Manual is super handy to have on board.
Unfortunately I looked at this book after we fixed our problem!
I used this book to get the information above for the checklist. What I suggest is if you’re new to Marine Diesel Engines, get this book. The first part of the book explains how Diesel engines work and it’s full of pictures and diagrams. The second part is all about maintenance. And the final parts contain repairs, breakdowns and winterizing.
When we took a Diesel Marine Engine course our teacher recommended these books to us.
Unfortunately, I’m not sure if this book is in print anymore. I think you might have to get a used copy. Regardless, if you can get a copy of it, grab it. Every page is full of pictures and easy step-by-step processes. We also have a book by the same author about outboard motors. I consider both the books as ‘must-have’s’ for our onboard library.
Not to be rude, but the first thing that you should have done is grab your multi-meter and check your battery voltage. You need at least 12.6 volts to spin your engine over. If you have enough voltage available then of course check all electrical connections to be clean and tight. The solenoid switch mounted on the starter can often be a problem. Disassembling the starter solenoid on a defective starter often shows burnt contact switches. The contact switches are very inexpensive to replace.
Also, the brushes may have worn out and are inexpensive to replace. It’s always a good idea to try another battery as a battery may indicate greater than 12.6 volts but may provide less than the required voltage when under load.
An easy way to load test a suspect battery is have someone using a multi-meter note the battery voltage prior to and during the (loaded) cranking cycle. If the voltage drops to less than 9-10 volts when (loaded) cranking, it’s time to try another battery as the battery indicating adequate voltage when resting may in fact be damaged, in spite of showing adequate voltage . Testing and checking can save mucho dollars and time. Fellow sailor, Richard
Hey Richard… thank you so very much for this! Believe it or not, we did test the the voltage, but not under load. The voltages was 12.6. When you don’t know what you don’t know it makes life so hard sometimes! We were so close to solving the issue quickly. We did the right things but didn’t have the full knowledge to take it that one step further. Your comments are a fantastic addition to this article and I’m sure they’ll help people in the future. Thank you so much for taking the time to write.
I feel for you guys! Freezing, frustration, and finally fabulous when all goes right in the end. It is so satisfying and such a relief when a problem like that has been solved. Thanks for all of these great posts. I look up your blog every time I get a chance.
Thank you for your comments Sarah. One problem solved and other started – now we have to find the batteries needed to start the starter. Hehehehe. Considering this boat is British and we’re in America everything we need seems to take a lot longer to investigate. By the time spring hits, however, we’ll be ready to start sailing again. Woo Woo!!
Not to be critical but you completely missed mentioning the panel in your post and diagnosis (where you put the key and push the button). The panel can be bypassed by using a starting switch connected to the starter solenoid. The start button can corrode and not send the current to the starter solenoid. Some models also have a fuse located in the panel.
I would recommend you carry Marine Diesel Engines: Maintenance, Troubleshooting, and Repair by Nigel Calder. This publication is much better than the books you mention. I have both. I rarely use the book you suggest.
Mark
Mark…The reason I missed mentioning the panel in my post is because that wasn’t my issue. And until you wrote about it, I didn’t know that issue even existed.
I’m certainly not professing to be an expert Diesel engine technician… I had an issue, tried to solve it and this is what I discovered. If you came to my blog because you felt I should know everything I’m really sorry to disappoint.
I have Calder’s book and I think it’s brilliant. In fact, I have most of Calder’s books… The issue I find with them is that there’s so much information that I don’t know where to start. If you have a background in engines (or anything Calder writes about) I’m sure it’s an invaluable resource…Sadly, my level of knowledge struggles to understand what he’s talking about half the time. Have you read Calder’s calculations in finding the perfect cruising boat or how in depth he goes with anchoring and scope? – way over my head!!!
Anyway…
Now that you have, however, mentioned the panel/switch/fuse issue someone that has a problem starting their genset/engine outside of what I covered will have another consideration. So…I thank you for your addition and recommendations.
The video on YouTube sparked a very wide array of positive suggestions/helpful advice. So, it’s also worthwhile to read the comments section below the video for more information considering this topic. Check that out here: https://youtu.be/QeL9V2dGYFg
And Mark, if you have an article or video that you’ve made, where you cover the information detailed in your comments, I’d be happy to post a link to it.
K.
I have a Westerbeke 21a on my Hunter 34. Starter cranks great but I think my glow plugs are getting weak. Seems to crank and crank before it will actually start. I new batteries and the connections are all in great shape. The only thing I have yet to look into is the connections on the actual glow plugs. I’ve only had the boat for a couple of weeks so I’m still going through the process of knowing it intimately lol.
Runs great once it’s up and purring like a drunken kitten.